We returned again this summer to the Monterey Bay area, which includes the cities of Carmel and Pacific Grove in addition to Monterey. The area reminds me a bit of Greater Palm Springs, in that both are significant international tourist destinations, with thriving arts and culture scenes and great local restaurants. The cities that make up Greater Palm Springs, just like the cities of Monterey, Carmel, and Pacific Grove are all relatively small in population, and all have a relaxed, comfortable vibe, with some being a bit more upscale than others.
One thing the Monterey area does not have in common with Palm Springs, especially in the summer months, is the weather. While Palm Springs is relentlessly sunny and hot, Monterey tends to be foggy and cool. Even when the sun is shining, it’s still pretty cool. And breezy. And quite wonderful by comparison.
Our first night in Monterey, we headed to the old part of the city, which lies along the waterfront and adjacent to downtown. There is a lot to see and do in this area, which we explored over several days. This particular night, we visited a city park with a lovely beach; walked along part of the Monterey Peninsula Recreational Trail, a paved walking and biking trail that runs alongside the bay for about 10 miles; and joined crowds of tourists at the entrance to Old Fisherman’s Wharf to watch the sea lions napping on the rocks.
The next day we headed to Hwy 1 south of Carmel to check out the coastal area known as Big Sur. I had been there before but Frank had not. Unfortunately, the fog was so thick and heavy we could barely see the water, and it didn’t clear up as the morning progressed. We vowed to return to Big Sur on the next sunny day, then headed inland a bit to Carmel Valley to enjoy lunch and some wine tasting.
Carmel Valley is southeast of Carmel, in a narrow valley formed by the Santa Lucia Mountains, which run south along the coast 140 miles, from Carmel to the Cuyama River in SLO County. About 15 miles from Carmel along Carmel Valley Road, you arrive at Carmel Valley Village, which is a town center of sorts in which shops, restaurants and wine tasting rooms line the main road and extend a block or two on either side.
Carmel Valley Road continues to wind its way through the mountains, ultimately intersecting with Arroyo Seco Rd about 30 miles south of the Village. There are a significant number of vineyards in this region, but as it is mountainous and remote, most of the wine producers choose to locate their tasting rooms in either Carmel, Carmel Valley Village, or Monterey.
Carmel Valley tends to be much warmer and sunnier than the coastal cities, and it is a lovely setting for wine tasting, particularly outdoors, with views of the mountains and farmland. The day we visited, we stopped at three tasting rooms. My favorite by far was Parsonage Winery, which is a family run vineyard and winery located in Carmel Valley south of the Village. We met one of the owners’ daughters, who was working that day, and she told us about the family and what role various members have in running the business.
We also learned that the matriarch of the family makes beautiful quilted wall hangings, several of which were hanging in the tasting room on the wall least exposed to direct sun. The remaining walls were filled with prints made from photos of her original quilts, all of which are available for sale.
The quilts are also featured on Parsonage Wine labels.
Next Up: Visiting Carmel, Monterey and Pacific Grove with our guests.
The weather up there sounds so refreshing!
Hey Paul,
It is refreshing but a bit cooler and foggier than ideal. What can I say, I’m hard to please. Still I do love this area for so many reasons: the wine, the food, the beaches, the weather most of the time, and the slower pace of life. Its perfect to visit this time of the year. Thanks for checking in.
Thank you for great Contant and photos. Just love that area despite the morning fog wonderful area.
Hey Debra,
I love the area myself but the fog does limit the photos I can take, which is a bit frustrating.
I had seen the 124-degree record in PS and thought how lucky I was to be in hot, hazy, humid, and stifling SC LOL! Read something, but have spaced the specifics, about some uber rich person buying up land in the Carmel area with locals not knowing much about the end game. Anything you can share on that after visiting the area? My favorite quilt was the one with the colorless peacock surrounded by what likely would have been its colors. Not sure what that artistic technique is called (I refer to it as “offset”), but I like it.
John,
Lots to unpack here. First, yes PS is a blast furnace and I’m glad to be gone for a while, but I still love the place completely. Second, I don’t know anything about the Carmel land grab but I can assure you nobody does anything up there that the very rich and very powerful and very preservation minded residents don’t want done. It will be a fight to the death!
As to the quilts, I loved them too, especially the peacocks. I have no idea what the technique is but if I find out, I will pass it along.
Beautiful area and love those quilts!!!
Melissa,
I agree about the area and about the quilts. I positively gushed over them and told her I thought there would be a market for the edgier ones (can a quilt be edgy?) in Palm Springs.
Leslie
Sounds like a lovely trip. Love the Monterrey / Carmel area.
In PS for a few days, missing the beach area
Leave for Spain soon. Whoohoo
Larry,
I sent you a text but thanks for checking in. I love the area too and I’m quite sure we will return again and again when we need to get away from Palm Springs for a bit. I hope you have a wonderful time in Spain.
Leslie